The before Picture.  The engine is an 1996 LT1 from a crashed Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham.  Stock Specs boast 10.5:1 compression, 260bhp @ 5000rpm, 330 lb-ft torque @3200RPM.  The car was sitting outside for quite some time.  I had to evict the several critters living inside.  At this point the engine is just sitting on one mount, Being that the K-member had not been altered the previous owner couldn't get the engine mount clam shell to seat because the AC compressor hits the K-Member.

Here the engine is removed, degreased and rust removed.  Some paint.  I try to keep things assembled as much as possible so things don't get lost.  "One thing at a time."

The engine has 40,000 miles on it. The rings were not seating too well and compression was very low.  Applying some Marvel Mystery Oil into each cylinder and hand cranking the engine about twice a week seems to be getting the compression back up. 

Modifications needed:
Engine Mounts- The AC Compressor hits the K-Bar, which prevents the Clamshell from dropping fully.  I made the same modifications you can find on "
The Definitive LT1 engine swap".

There was no cable from the throttle body to the transmission a knuckle must be added 33mm from pivot center. 

The coolant flow is reversed from the original 305, so different radiator and hoses.

Polishing Aluminum sucks.  This engine has alot of aluminum.  You need to have lots of patience.
The process:
1. 60 grit (If casting sand marks are present)
2. 120 grit.
3. Wire brush, many types.  I have found that some score more than others.  The little stainless brushes on a Dremel really do a nice job, they are just so small.
4. Rubbing coumpound
5. Glazing Coumpund
6. Aluminum Polish, keep the pressure low and RPMS down.

The smoother the surface when you start the further into the steps you can begin.
Use some carnuba wax to protect the finish.

New Stainless steel battery tray.  I had to trim about an inch off the width to squeeze it in.  Mounted with stainless bolts with rounded heads.

Here is the engine ready to go in.  I lifted the engine, lowered to align with transmission then bolted on transmision.  Notice strap at front of engine.  This is to tilt the engine up when dropping in. The chain around the water pump is for safety and not used to lift engine.  It came in handy when the strap ratchet let loose once.   I left the AC on to check clearance.  The Harmonic balancer had to come off.  Very tight fit.  The car is lowered so I have 8 inches of clearance between the disks and the ground so the lift wheels will slide under.   The fuel regulator was in the way, I worked around it but I recommend removing it.

Safety note: Never work on a suspended engine, support with blocks.


Engine mount towers are already bolted in.  Cut off the small tabs that extend out from the front and back of the mount.  Bolt the transmission onto its cross member, then bolt in mounts.  Lots of wiggling and prying involved.